Jakobsweg: Brienz to Interlaken: 6 August 2011

Brienz to Interlaken

Jakobsweg: Lungern to Brienz: 28 June 2011

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Lungern to Brienz

Jakobsweg: Sachseln to Lungern: 27 June 2011

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Sachseln to Lungern

Jakobsweg: Stans to Sachseln: 26 June 2011

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Stans to Sachseln

Jakobsweg: Beckenried to Stans: 21 June 2011

At last some more decent weather to continue on the next leg of Jakobsweg: Beckenried to Stans.


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Jakobsweg: Beckenried to Stans

Jakobsweg: Schwyz to Beckenried: 13 June 2011

It's been quite a while since I managed to cover more of Jakobsweg, but with a public holiday today and despite the grey weather, I decided that this was a day not to be wasted. After 4 changes of train I arrived at Schwyz station, but then had to take the bus to the town centre. The route took me through the outskirts of town, past the Mater Dolorosa, Our Lady of Sorrows chapel, across the river and past another chapel to a large expanse of grassy fields. I could hear shots in the distance, but when I came nearer to a farm building, a loud shot rang out quite close by. I also saw what looked like a burst balloon fall down between some trees. Fearing for my life and imagining some crazed farmer doing target practice, I kept on walking as I was on the public "Wanderweg". The closer I got, the more clearly I could see the "burst balloon" and the cherry trees that surrounded it. It was not a balloon at all, but some kind of contraption that occasionally made the shooting sound, presumably to frighten birds away from the cherries. Nevertheless, I kept my eyes on it as I went past, afraid that it would go off again before I managed to get past. No sooner had I escaped from one "danger" than a large alsatian came out of the house I was passing and started barking loudly. Beware, walking the Way of St. James is not for the faint hearted.

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Schwyz to Beckenried

Jakobsweg: Einsiedeln to Schwyz - 9 April 2011

Some more wonderful weather and another great weekend - planning these walks can become addictive. So the next leg is from Einsiedeln to Schwyz, and I was looking forward to moving further West, as a lot of my previous journeys involved going back East in order to complete the journey west.

It started in a comparatively quiet Einsiedeln (having visited previously at Christmas, the difference was obvious), and quickly moved out of town and along the valley. The whole route was completely green and full of the signs of spring, which a few weeks ago would not have been the case. This part of Jakobsweg is a very pleasant walk, going past the Benedictine Convent at Au, across farmland and pasture, through Trachslau and winding gently upwards until you get to Alpthal. The church in this village is really worth a visit, but from then on the path winds steeply upwards.

Einsiedeln to Schwyz

Jakobsweg: Pfaffikon to Einsiedeln - 2 October 2010

This was one of the first stages of my journey, but coincided with a renewed interest in walking. It was also the start of documenting my journey visually by taking photos, this time for a presentation about natural Switzerland.

Pfaffikon to Einsiedeln

Jakobsweg: Rapperswil to Pfaffikon

This was a walk taken without a camera and prior to starting Jakobsweg. It can easily be revisited and photographed, but I remember many groups of bird watchers, all with their own cameras and binoculars, from walking this section for the first time.

Jakobsweg: Neuhaus to Rapperswil 15 January 2011

My daughter needs a ride to a birthday celebration in Rapperswil, and given the great weather I wonder if I could complete a short hike - although it's January, it's warm, fine and I'll be in the right area. I drop my daughter off to meet her friends, park the car and find a bus to take me to Neuhaus so I can do the Neuhaus to Rapperswil leg of Jakobsweg. Unfortunately, I forget my camera, so the photos here are from the end section of a different day's walk.

Neuhaus to Rapperswil

Jakobsweg: Wattwil to Neuhaus - 3 April 2011

Gorgeous weather again so although I could do with a day of rest, I feel I must make the most of this opportunity to finish the part of Jakobsweg on the other side of Zurich lake. From then I'll be going forwards and away, rather than still trying to complete the arrival part (if you see what I mean).

Comparatively short trip to Wattwil, but a bit of a climb to Iberg castle. Great view of the mountains, the monastery and the descent that wrecked my knees last week. Expecting Iberg castle to be closed, I was ready to walk on by, but in fact it was open and entry was free. Definitely worth a quick detour. Then the path continued onwards and upwards. A sudden surprise in the woods, given that I was not far out of town - two deer. They stopped for long enough for me to get a photo of one.

Wattwil to Neuhaus

Jakobsweg: Herisau to Wattwil: 26th March 2011

The weather is good, we lose an hour this weekend by moving into "summer time", I'm awake early on a Saturday morning, have the train times and a backpack ready - just seems the perfect occasion to do the long hike I've been wanting to get into since the autumn.

I last left Jakobsweg at Herisau in October, but as the days have got longer and there are signs that any walk may not be completely snow-covered or water-logged, I've been itching to put more points on "my map". Last weekend I went up Santis with my daughter, by cable car - any climb up would have been impossible due to snow on Friday night. So after a week of wonderfully warm weather, but with rain forecast for Sunday, it was off to Herisau to start the next "leg".

Somehow over the winter, the nervousness I experienced at the start of my initial journey had gone, and all I felt was exhilaration. It was like a manageable adventure, a small challenge, an escape from commitments and schedules - a day on my own - what a luxury!

I returned to the church of St Lauritius which this time I was able to visit. From there I continued across the square to the Schmiedgasse, which led off to the right past some historic houses and some which have adopted a more modern flavour.

I honestly thought that I followed the scallop shell signs correctly, and knew where I should be going on my map, but on the way out of Herisau no longer felt that I was on the correct route. Rather than turning back, I cut in through a side road, followed the path up to the woodland above and eventually found the next signpost showing the way. This foreshadowed many moments during the rest of the day, when neither the scallop shell nor any other indication were immediately evident. Anyway, eventually I got to the Zentenarlinde (centuries-old-Lime tree) at the top of the Nieschberg (917m), from which there's a magnificent view of Santis and the whole mountain range.

After the Hornli Pass and just before reaching the path that looks down to Schwellbrunn, I stopped for a drink. Another hiker was going the opposite way, but stopped to ask the direction for St Peterzell, the direction I was going in. I told him he was going the wrong way, to which he replied, "Are you sure?". I said a categoric "Yes", showed him my map and let him do a quick U-turn. I cursed the situation because the last thing I wanted was a hiking partner, but while I put my water bottle and map back into my backpack, he continued on his way and I was able to continue in my own time. At moments like these I wonder how women travelling on their own in the past must have managed.

Herisau to Wattwil

Jakobsweg: Sankt Gallen to Herisau: 31 October 2010

Arriving back in Sankt Gallen, while keen to continue the next part of my journey, I really didn't expect much excitement. I knew the walk out of Sankt Gallen would take me through the generally uninteresting outskirts of a large town. However, it was a beautifully clear day and I enjoyed a quick revisit of the abbey square before following the scallop's shell sign out of town.

It took some time finally to exit the town suburbs, but the way was not without interest. The small chapel above the path was worth a photo. Just before the large modern "Furstenland" bridge over the river Sitter, the road winds down to the older "Krazern" bridge, at the end of which is an old toll house that marks the border between the Sankt Gallen and Appenzell cantons. The uphill walk eventually leads to the beautiful "Gubsen" lake which was surrounded by trees showing their autumn colours.



The "Alter Zoll", no longer a functioning restaurant although it is marked as one, was formerly a customs post for the canton border that has just been crossed. From there the path leads upwards, over the crest of the hill and past the cemetery. Below is a view of what seems to be an army barracks, and the path descends through a residential area into the old part of Herisau.
There was just time for a quick walk to the other edge of town, looking for where Jakobsweg continues, a clear view of the mountain, Santis, still with snow on the top, then it was back to the train station and home.

St Gallen to Herisau

Jakobsweg: Do I have to have a reason for going for a walk?

You don't have to have an excuse or explanation for going on a walk, but when there are so many possibilities, it's sometimes easier to follow a prearranged route. Decisions about how far, how long and which direction are made for you, so your only responsibility is to get to the starting point, ... and make it to the finish. Hence the choice to start with a well-trodden path, Jakobsweg, or the route to Santiago to Compostela in northern Spain. However, although there are many starting points across Europe, as I currently live in Switzerland, I decided to start my trek at the German/Swiss border. As it says in the on-line guide <jakobsweg.ch>, "While formerly, many pilgrims to Santiago arrived in the harbour of Rorschach by boat coming from Lindau, most wanderers of our time arrive at the railway station ...", which is also where I started on a grey and misty day in October (14th)2010. Coming out of the harbour station, and feeling rather nervous about what felt like the start of an enormous undertaking, all on my own, I had a moment of panic. How was I going to find which way to go? Following the website instructions, I strolled along the harbour area, round a corner and found myself in front of my first landmark, the "Jakobsbrunnen" or St James' well.

From there the scallop shell signs led through the old streets, past an enormous church, through a residential area and out of Rorschach town.

Rorschach to St Gallen

Although I had intended to continue on from Sankt Gallen to Herisau, when I arrived in St Gallen I decided that the town deserved more than just a cursory visit. The cathedral and Abbey square are stunning, while the surrounding old town is extremely attractive. I managed to arrive in time to visit the abbey library, which exudes ancient learning. After so much walking, the shops were also a great attraction, so rather than continue, I spent a good few hours wandering after which I took the train home.